Cutting Tools
GRASS SHEARS
Three widely used cutting actions for grass shears are draw
cut, scissor action and leverage-assisted action.
Draw-cut trimmers have a stationary lower blade and moving
upper blade, operated by an up-and-down squeeze on the handle.
Blades are tempered, hollow-ground steel to hold cutting
edge.
Draw-cut trimmers are usually considered better quality and
have higher prices than scissor trimmers.
Scissor-action shears have two moving blades and work much
like ordinary household scissors-with side-to-side
pressure.
Although some manufacturers still make quality scissor
shears with hollow-ground blades, many of these trimmers have
lower-quality stamped blades that will not hold a sharp
edge.
Leverage-assisted trimmers use a between-the-handles cam
with an off-center pivot that increases the cutting efficiency
while reducing the effort to squeeze the handles. Variations
of this design include one where a rod pulls the blade like
the draw cut and one which pushes the rod towards the blade
with a significant increase of leverage. This shear has deep
bevels, hollow-ground tempered stainless-steel blades with
hand-honed edges.
All of these trimmers incorporate a safety lock or catch to
hold blades together when not in use.
Long-handled grass shears-same operating action as the
short handled ones-relieve tiresome crouching when there's a
lot of trimming to do.
Cordless electric grass shears and long-handled string
trimmers have gained wide popularity in recent years.
HEDGE SHEARS
Hand-operated hedge shears have a scissor-like cutting
action. Blades are from 6" to 10" long, some with serrated
edges, others with notched positions for bulk cuts, or
arc-edge blades that have two curved blades that pass through
growth from either side.
Most shears have one cutting and one holding blade. The arc
edge has two cutting blades.
High-quality hedge shears have bumpers or metal shock
springs to take some of the shock out of the cutting action.
High carbon steel blades in the better quality shears are
fully heat treated to hold their sharp edge longer. Both wood
and steel handles are available in various lengths.
Variations of hedge shears are an evergreen shear which has
a longer handle and a multiple-pivot leverage system shear
that increases leverage.
PRUNING SHEARS
Hand pruning shears come 6" to 9" long, with blade and
anvil (or draw cut) and hook and blade (or bypass) cutting
patterns.
Draw cutting results from one sharp cutting edge moving
firmly against a non-cutting anvil.
Bypass cutting moves one sharpened blade against a
stationary curved hook. Although they are difficult to
sharpen, most professionals and rose growers prefer this
pattern, because it cuts closer to the stem.
Top-quality pruning shears offer specially ground,
hand-honed blades for extra cutting strength; blades perfectly
balanced against each other or the anvil; Teflon-coated
cutting blades for easier cutting; rubber- or plastic-covered
handles and adjustable tension-joint assemblies. A sap groove
on bypass blades eliminates gummy buildup and makes pruning
easier.
TREE PRUNERS
Tree pruners are pruning shears or a pruning saw attached
to a long pole that will accept extensions or telescope- usual
length is 6" to 12".
Leverage is essential. The length of the lever arm,
multiple pivot points and the number of pulleys all increase
leverage to make cutting easier. Gear-driven blades make
cutting even easier. In addition, the compactness of the head
adds convenience and maneuverability to cut in tight
places.
A rope and pulley operate the cutter. The cutting mechanism
is at the cutting head with rope extending the full length of
the pole. High-quality rope and a gripping handle on the rope
make cutting much easier.
Saws will cut limbs larger than 1 1/2" thick and shears,
depending on strength of construction and jaw opening width,
will cut limbs up to 1 1/2" thick.
PRUNING SAWS
Pruning saws are used to cut dry or green limbs from trees.
In addition to the pole pruner, saws include curved pruner,
double-edge pruner, folding pruner and long-handled
pruner.
Blades come in lengths to 24". Quality blades are flat
ground tempered steel and handles are polished hardwood.
Gear-driven assemblies are also available.
Steel-framed bow saws are also popular for pruning.
Some feature a high arch so all the blade length can be
used for cutting and lever-type handles to hold blades at
proper tension and to give easy blade changes.
LOPPING SHEARS
With their long handles for firm leverage and hard,
tempered tool steel blades, lopping shears eat their way
through heavy underbrush.
Handles are up to 30" long and jaws will cut through limbs
up to 2" thick.
As with other pruners, most operate on anvil or bypass
principles. There are various multi-power lopping shears.
Gear-driven assemblies or a multi-pivot system give 300 lbs.
of cutting power, three times that of conventional shears of
equal length.
STEPS TO SUCCESSFUL PRUNING
| 1. Study the plant to decide what its pruning
needs are. Information on the correct time to prune each
plant is available to you through your local extension
service. Decide how the plant grows and how you can
maintain its natural form. |
| 2. Make all cuts flush above a bud or on
adjoining branches. Always cut above a bud that is
pointing in the direction you wish that new branch to
grow. The proper pruning cut will develop the shrub's
proper shape, reduce disease problems and allow for
stronger branch development. |
| 3. Remove all dead or damaged branches first.
Next remove (thin out) or cut back branches that detract
from the tree's overall shape. These include branches
that are weak or may cause future problems by competing
for light or growing into other branches. |
| Treat all wounds larger than a dime with a
good tree wound dressing. |
| WHEN TO PRUNE: |
| Major pruning on fruit trees should be done
while the plant is dormant. Minor pruning on fruit trees
can be done anytime. |
| Pruning most leafy shrubs should follow a
renovation program. Remove one- fourth to one-fifth of
the oldest, largest canes each year. If this is done the
oldest cane in the shrub will the three to four years
old. Keep only the strongest new canes for replacement
and remove the weakest canes. |
| Shrubs like forsythia, flowering quince and
pussy willow that bloom early in the spring should be
pruned immediately after they bloom. Shrubs such as rose
of Sharon and hydrangea that bloom later in the season
should be pruned while they are dormant. |
| Most plants used in sheared hedges can be
pruned throughout the growing season. |
| Some trees such as birch, maple, walnut,
dogwood and elm should not be pruned in late winter or
early spring when sap is moving, as they may "bleed"
profusely. These trees should be pruned when they are in
full leaf. |
| Annual and perennial flowers will also become
more bushy and produce more flowers if new growth is
pinched back. This will create a fuller plant. Pinching
chrysanthemums should be discontinued after July
4. |
| Hybrid tea roses should be pruned back to
9"-12" in the spring to a bud pointing to the outside of
the bush. Make all cuts 1/4" above the bud or branch to
give strength and support to the new growth. |
| Remove old canes of climbing roses
immediately after they bloom. Allow new canes to develop
for next year's bloom. |
| Source: National Lawn and Garden
Distributors Association with the aid of the Cooperative
Extension Service Institute of Agriculture and Natural
Resources University of
Nebraska-Lincoln. |
EDGERS
Hand edgers (round blade) consist of
long handle; sharp, high carbon steel blade and turned step
for better foot pressure and leverage. They function well for
edging thick sod around walks, flower beds, trees and
shrubs.
Rotary edgers come with single or
double wheels. In the single-wheel model, a rubber-tired wheel
moves along walk or driveway turning cutting blade against
cutting edge. Teeth float above the bottom trench to cut grass
without being clogged by stones, sticks and other debris.
Better edgers have high-carbon steel, self-sharpening
blades; hardened wood or metal handles long enough to allow
the user to walk upright; and cutting width adjustment.
Two-wheeled edgers give better traction, but are unhandy
for edging around house foundation or trees.
WEED CUTTERS
Weed cutters cut thick, heavy weeds with a double-edge
blade. Some blades have serrated edges. They are available in
elliptical (oval shaped) and whip design.
Blades are forged from high- carbon steel, tempered to keep
a sharp cutting edge. Weed cutters are usually preferred by
persons unskilled with a scythe.
Similar to weed cutters are brush hooks, a heavy-duty tool
for hacking through unusually heavy brush, and grass hooks,
double-edge blades on long handles that slice through
grass.
TOOL MAINTENANCE TIPS
| Any tool performs better if it is kept in top
condition. Follow these tips for season-end
maintenance: |
| Clean up all cutting or bladed tools-clean
off dirt and rust and sharpen edge. |
| Condition blades by spraying with
rust-preventive lubricant or rust-inhibitive
paint. |
| Condition wooden handles by sanding off
splinters and rubbing with linseed oil. |
| Clean rakes and straighten bent tines. |
| Clean garden sprayers by flushing chemicals
out with clear water or with a household
detergent. |
| Drain and properly store garden
hose. |
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Check your state and local codes before starting any
project. Follow all safety precautions. Information in this
document has been furnished by the National Retail Hardware
Association (NRHA) and associated contributors. Every effort
has been made to ensure accuracy and safety. Neither NRHA, any
contributor nor the retailer can be held responsible for
damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information
in this
document. |